Simple Pleasures

Roadside Attractions That Still Charm

By Leon·Simple Pleasures·9 min read

My father had a rule for long car trips: if you saw a sign for something peculiar — a two-headed calf, the world's largest anything, a mystery spot where balls rolled uphill — you stopped. Full stop. The detour might add an hour. We were stopping anyway. He said life was too short to drive past the extraordinary just because it wasn't on the map.

I have kept that rule. It has given me afternoons in Cawker City, Kansas, where a man named Frank Stoeber began wrapping a ball of sisal twine in 1953 and never really stopped. The ball currently weighs over 19,000 pounds. You can add to it. They give you a length of twine. You walk around this enormous sphere in a little open shelter on a quiet town square, and something about the whole thing — the absurdity, the dedication, the fact that it just kept going — gets you right in the chest.

Roadside attractions are the folk art of American geography. They were invented by the same combination of entrepreneurial instinct and unhinged personal vision that gave us county fairs and mail-order seed catalogs. Most were built by one stubborn individual who had an idea and followed it past the point where a sensible person would have quit. That's precisely what makes them worth your time.

Why These Places Still Matter

There's a version of American travel that involves airports and chain hotels and restaurants that look identical in every city. That travel is efficient. It gets you there. It is also, if we're honest, not really travel at all — it's logistics with scenery.

The roadside attraction is the antithesis of that. It is the thing that cannot be replicated, franchised, or found anywhere else on earth. The Cadillac Ranch outside Amarillo exists exactly once. The International Banana Museum in Mecca, California — with over 20,000 banana-themed items — exists exactly once. The Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota, with its exterior murals made entirely from actual corn, is the only building in the world that gets renovated annually with a new theme in grain.

These are not tourist traps in the pejorative sense. A tourist trap takes your money and gives you something generic. These places give you something genuinely specific: a story, a vision, proof that one person cared enough about one strange idea to build something physical out of it and invite strangers to share it.

Leon Says

"The measure of a good roadside attraction is whether you tell people about it afterward. Not the fancy restaurant, not the landmark everybody visits — the strange thing on the highway that you almost didn't stop for. That's the one you'll be telling at dinner for years."

Eight Worth the Detour

Cawker City, Kansas

World's Largest Ball of Twine

19,000+ pounds of sisal. Started 1953 by Frank Stoeber. The town holds an annual Twine-a-Thon. You can contribute. Free admission — they hand you twine at the shelter.

Folk Obsession
Amarillo, Texas

Cadillac Ranch

Ten Caddies buried nose-first in a wheat field, half the car underground. Opened 1974 by the artist collective Ant Farm. Bring spray paint — repainting is encouraged and continuous.

Art Installation
Mitchell, South Dakota

Corn Palace

A municipal auditorium with an exterior completely redecorated in corn, grain, and grasses each year. The current tradition started in 1892. Murals depict themes chosen by a local committee.

Annual Renewal
Marfa, Texas

The Marfa Lights

Mysterious lights that appear east of town on clear nights, witnessed since the 1880s. No satisfying scientific explanation has ever fully held. The viewing platform has interpretive signs that admit this.

Genuine Mystery
Gilroy, California

The Mystery Spot

A 150-foot circle in the redwoods where compasses spin, balls roll uphill, and people appear to change heights. Open since 1939. The explanation is optical illusion, but the experience is still disorienting and fun.

Since 1939
Lucas, Kansas

Grassroots Art Capitol

An entire small town that functions as an outdoor art gallery. S.P. Dinsmoor's Garden of Eden — a cement sculpture garden and mausoleum started in 1907 — anchors it. Multiple folk artists have added to the collection over the decades.

Folk Art Town
Salvation Mountain, California

Salvation Mountain

A mountain of adobe, straw, and paint built by Leonard Knight over 30 years in the desert near Slab City. Covered in religious messages and folk imagery. No admission. Bring water.

One Man's Vision
Roswell, New Mexico

International UFO Museum

Devoted to the 1947 incident. What makes it charming is how seriously everyone takes it — the exhibits, the town, the visitors. Whether you believe or not, the sincerity is completely real.

Cultural Phenomenon

The Categories of Roadside Wonder

Once you start paying attention, you realize roadside attractions cluster into recognizable types. Knowing the categories helps you spot them — and helps you decide which warrant a full stop versus a slow roll.

The Major Families of Roadside Wonder

The Worth-the-Detour Decision

Not every attraction justifies the same level of detour. Here's an honest guide, built from experience and occasional disappointment.

Type Detour Verdict Notes
Folk art environments Almost Always Worth It Built by individuals over decades. Nothing like it anywhere else. Even modest ones reward attention.
World's largest — legitimate ones Worth It The sheer scale of the genuine article is always stranger than you expect. Ball of twine, for example, is genuinely unsettling up close.
Mystery spots Depends on Your Disposition Knowing the explanation (optical illusion) doesn't ruin it. If you're the type who can be charmed by cleverness, stop. If you need to believe, skip.
Giant fiberglass statues Worth It If It's Specific A giant walleye pike in a fishing town is great. A generic giant dinosaur with a gift shop is probably not.
Eccentric single-subject museums Underrated — Definitely Stop The curator is often on-site and will tell you things. No other type of museum is so likely to leave you genuinely educated.
"Replica" anything Usually Skip A half-scale Eiffel Tower in a strip mall parking lot is not the thing. The genuine eccentric is always preferable to the reproduction of something already famous.
Natural phenomena (lights, sounds) Go at Night, Worth Every Minute The Marfa Lights viewing platform at 11 PM under a clear sky is one of the better ways to spend an hour in America. Even if the lights don't come.

How to Find the Good Ones

The best roadside attractions are poorly marketed by design. The people who built them were not thinking about SEO. Here is where to look.

1
Roadside America and Atlas Obscura

These two sites have done more archiving work than any institution. Search by state and read the user comments — commenters will tell you if the attraction has declined, improved, or changed hours.

2
State tourism offices — the real pages, not the highlight reels

Most state tourism sites bury their genuine oddities behind the well-photographed landmarks. Go to the "regions" pages, not the home page, and look for the things that get shorter write-ups.

3
Local weekly newspapers — still the best

A weekly paper in rural Kansas has covered every peculiar thing within 60 miles for 80 years. The archives are increasingly online. Search "[county name] newspaper archives" and read the features section.

4
Ask at diners, not gas stations

The person working the register at a highway gas station may not be from there. The person at the counter of a diner that's been open since 1961 has opinions about everything within 40 miles, and will share them freely.

5
Watch for handmade signs

A printed banner from a sign company means a business. A handpainted sign on plywood nailed to a fence post means something real. The plywood sign is almost always more interesting.

The Unwritten Code of Roadside Visiting

Most roadside attractions are family operations or community efforts running on thin margins and the owner's personal investment of time. There are a few unwritten obligations.

If there's a donation box, donate. Not because you have to. Because the alternative is that it closes. The Mystery Spot, the folk art environments, the single-subject museums — they exist because people have kept them going, often for decades, often at personal cost. A few dollars in a donation box is the most direct way to vote for their continued existence.

If the creator is there, ask questions. A remarkable number of folk art environments are still tended by the person who built them or their direct family. This is your only opportunity to hear the actual story from the actual person. Put the phone down. Ask what they were thinking when they started. Ask if it turned out the way they imagined. The answer is almost always surprising.

Take pictures of the whole thing, not just the funny part. The instinct is to photograph the absurdity — the ball of twine, the buried Cadillac, the two-headed calf. The better photograph is usually the context: the quiet town square, the flat Kansas horizon, the family eating sandwiches in the shade of a sculpture garden. The context is what makes the thing extraordinary.

The Thing My Father Understood

What my father knew, and what I've had forty years of road trips to confirm, is that the detour is the trip. The interstate is transportation. The exit onto a two-lane road that leads to a field with ten buried Cadillacs is experience. They are not the same thing, and confusing them costs you the better part of a life.

The world's largest ball of twine weighs 19,000 pounds and sits in an open shelter in a town of about 500 people in the middle of Kansas. The man who built it died in 1974, a decade before the ball reached a ton. The town kept adding to it anyway. They formed a committee. They held an annual event. They put up a sign on the highway.

That sign is an invitation. It says: we have something strange here. We think it's worth your time. We'll hand you some twine.

My father never drove past that sign.

Neither do I.